Feet numb from California cold water, I wait for the next good wave. The chop splashes against my bodyboard, getting into my eyes. Glasses on shore, I wouldn’t be able to make out anything in the distance anyway.
I feel the swell so I kick my feet. A large wave takes hold propelling me fast toward the shore. I grin.
The wave breaks on top of me, thunderous water smashing my face into the compacted seafloor sand.
“Where is my board?”
Someone gives it to me. On shore. Split lip. Nose blood spattering the sand. I hope it looked cool.